2004 Riesling vom Stein Federspiel

The Nikolaihof’s 2004 Riesling Federspiel Vom Stein was the only representative of this year’s Rieslings that I had the opportunity to taste. This Federspiel offers Sauvignon-like aromas of black currant and mint not uncommon in the Austrian Rieslings of this vintage. The palate expresses a medicinal sort of bitter-sweet herbal essence imbedded in a juicy, luscious matrix of pit fruits and citrus. The mouth is thoroughly suffused with salts, wet stone, chalk dust, and all other manner of ineffable expressions of minerality. The finish returns, however, both to the Sauvignon-like notes of the aroma and to a certain sense of tart, malic hardness that wants to resolve itself. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300