2006 Pommard Grands Epenots

The Courcel 2006 Pommard Grand Clos Des Epenots possesses a noticeably finer tannic structure than its predecessors in the vintage line-up, along with more lift and primary juiciness to its black fruits. The fascinating and flattering suggestions of bittersweet floral perfume and aromatic woods that accrued to the Croix Noires and Fremiers – undoubtedly traits emphasize by the inclusion of whole clusters and stems in the fermentor – are joined here by toasted nuts and a diverse melange of red and black fruits. At around 13.7% alcohol this reflects the highest ripeness of sugar achieved at the estate this year, but there is not only no warmth, this wine also preserves welcome vivacity and lift. Rich in glycerin and sappy, resinous fruit and herbal intensity, it finishes with tenacity and well-covered, fine tannins. I suspect it will be worth following for at least the better part of a decade. Predictably, Yves Confuron picked very late (until October 12), and although malos were for the most part timely, the wines stayed in barrel through two springs, to be bottled at 20-22 months (depending on site), since which I have not tasted them. Confuron also stuck by his allegiance to long fermentation with whole clusters and stems, although he backed off slightly in both respects – as well as in pigeage – vis-a-vis 2005. By the time rot and imperfections were eliminated from the crop, it was meager even in comparison with the estate's long-term average. Confuron had an interesting and unique take on the vintage, associating its fruit with 2002 but the youthful austerity of 2001. Importer: Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400

Good full red. Darker aromas of blueberry and spice; from a hotter site than the Fremiers and it shows. Then fresh and sweet in the mouth, with spicy dark fruit and strawberry preserve flavors. Plenty of toothdusting tannins here, but they're nicely supported by the wine's sweet middle. I'd wait four or five years before trying this. At this point in our tasting, Confuron described his 2006s as combining the structure of 2001 and the fruit of 2002.

Good deep red. Complex, soil-driven aromas of redcurrant, smoke, iron and coffee; this will go truffley with bottle aging. Sweet, lush and impressively ripe for the year, with a creamy texture but no shortage of energy. Finishes with a suggestion of leather. This is 13.5% natural alcohol.