2006 Rioja Reserva

The 2006 Reserva is a blend of 75% Tempranillo, 15% Graciano, 5% Mazuelo and 5% Garnacha raised in American and French oak for two years,. It has a very seductive bouquet with lush, but composed dark cherry, pomegranate and spice-tinged notes that are well-defined and focused. The palate is medium-bodied with svelte tannins and well-judged acidity, and a velvety-smooth finish of wild strawberry, cassis and citrus lemon. This is a very fine Reserva to drink until 2025, but I suspect the following vintage is better. Drink 2013-2020+ CVNE was founded by the Real de Asua brothers in 1879 and has remained family-owned since that time. The historic bodega is located in Haro, and there are three companies under the umbrella: CVNE, Contino and Vina Real. These wines were tasted on two occasions in London, revisiting recent vintages plus older ones to compare. The Vino del Olivo is fermented in large oak vats and undergoes malolactic in new French barrels, where it is matured for 17 months. The Graciano is limited to around 6,000 bottles per vintage and is aged for 15 months in new oak (90% French and 10% Hungarian) and then 12 months in bottle. Importer: Christopher Cannan, Europvin; www.europvin.com

Winemaker Jesus de Madrazo. RS 2.1 g/l. 85% Tempranillo, 10% Graciano, 5% Mazuelo. Deep crimson. Lots of pure fruit and just the merest sprinkling of dust. Very savoury and well balanced. This is proper wine – good choice! Luscious balance of ripe fruit without excessive oak or alcohol. Interesting. Real wine. (JR)

(a blend of tempranillo, graciano and mazuelo): Saturated ruby. Complex, smoky scents of red- and blackcurrant, dried cherry, tobacco and rose, with subtle vanilla and spice notes in the background. A fleshy, seamless midweight that offers sweet red and dark berry and bitter cherry flavors underscored by tangy minerality. Finishes with very good thrust and clarity, repeating the cherry note. Drink this well before the 2005 version.