2017 Chevalier Montrachet
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Tasting notes
The 2017 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru sports a very slight reduction on the nose, but there is good delineation and complexity, and emerging honeysuckle and almost resinous aromas. The palate also shows a lot of reduction, which suppresses the fruit and terroir expression. There is a little chewiness toward the finish, and a sour, bitter note lingers on the aftertaste. Perversely, Colin's Grand Cru ended up scoring below his Premier Crus, but I believe that is because of the current reductive state and this will eventually blossom. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting in Savigny-lès-Beaune.
Critic scores
Average Score
Neal Martin
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
More reviews and scores
The 2017 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru is immensely promising, unfurling in the glass with an appropriately reserved nose of lemon oil, candle wax, white currants, toasted bread and dried spring flowers. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, deep and layered with a satiny attack, excellent concentration at the core and a long, expansive finish. This must number among the best kept secrets in grand cru white Burgundy, and I encourage readers to seek it out.
(aging in 50% new oak and 50% once-used barrels): Bright yellow. Aromas of yellow fruits, white flowers, marzipan and minerals are complicated by a sexy leesy quality and some sweet oak notes. Very rich, thick wine with terrific concentration and ripe acidity; flavors of yellow fruits, flowers, spices, crushed rock and hazelnut spread out to saturate the palate without leaving any impression of weight. Finishes tactile and unflagging but at the same time subtle and quite suave, without any of the youthful aggressiveness shown by the Demoiselles.