2017 Bourgogne Rouge

The 2017 Bourgogne Rouge is showing beautifully in bottle, wafting from the glass with aromas of raspberries, cherries, potpourri and raw cocoa. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, succulent and lively, with lovely depth of fruit, velvety tannins and a perfumed finish. While it's already approachable, I would nonetheless reiterate my remarks last year to the effect that readers who are able to find a few bottles should plan on cellaring them for at least five or six years, as the wine is built more like a village Vosne-Romanée than a typical Bourgogne.

The 2017 Bourgogne Rouge, which is aged in 10% new oak and this year is augmented by four hectares returned to the domaine after a sharecropping agreement ended, has quite a concentrated bouquet of mulberry and wild strawberry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit laced with iodine and citrus fruit; hints of marmalade appear toward the finish.