2016 Gruner Veltliner Vinothek Smaragd

As Knoll senior pointed out, “this was not a year in which Smaragd reached especially prominent ripeness or high potential alcohol, or in which there was significant botrytis.” Had it not been for one young stand of vines that produced half of a normal crop, supplemented by plots in Kreutles and Loibenberg that had a touch of botrytis and were left to hang, not even this very small Vinothekfüllung would have been produced. Peach, mango, nutmeg and almond extract combine for an effusive, high-toned nose, though as the wine takes on air, one glimpses a bit of more specifically Grüner Veltliner-typical green bean and snap pea. A plush, creamy feel complements the richness of fruit delivered on the palate, and piquant peach kernel lends welcome counterpoint. While the finish lacks the mineral intrigue of others of this collection’s top successes, it’s seductively succulent and soothingly sustained.