2013 Volnay Clos des Chenes
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Tasting notes
(as with the Santenots and Champans, the yield here was just 15 hectoliters per hectare, according to Lafon): Healthy medium red. Subtle flavors of kirsch , licorice, minerals and violet are given lift and definition by brisk acidity. Supple but sappy wine with firm but fine-grained tannins and a strong finishing note of licorice. A lovely showing.
Critic scores
Average Score
Jancis Robinson MW
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
More reviews and scores
(40% new oak): Bright, deep ruby-red. Sexy aromas of blackberry, violet, cocoa powder and licorice, plus a whiff of woodsmoke. Sappy and deep, with thoroughly ripe flavors of black cherry, licorice and spices and a repeating smoky quality. Finishes with substantial broad tannins. Hail kept production here to just 2-1/2 barrels.
The 2013 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes, of which there are two and a half barrels, has a straitlaced black plum and blackberry bouquet. The palate is medium-bodied with juicy ripe blackcurrant and cassis notes, very good depth here, and then surfacing on the finish with elegant and quite tensile tannins. This is a well-crafted, strict Clos des Chênes that might be overshadowed by the Champans, but is still a worthy wine.
There is no young-vine bottling of Volnay tout court in 2013 – not enough wine. Substantial and juicy blend of half late malo and half early malo. Little bit of fizz but very promising, Lush and round. Masses of fruit. A little delicacy and a lot of fruit. (JR)