2007 Bourgogne Blanc Cuvee Oligocenes

Javillier’s single-vineyard 2007 Bourgogne Cuvee Oligocene – a wine that habitually transcends its appellation – combines high-toned kirsch, almond and pistachio oil, luscious pink grapefruit; and a predictable chalkiness, crystalline minerality, and saline savor on a palate of unusual creaminess for young Oligocene. A great many premier cru Meursault – even from the excellent estates whose wines are routinely reviewed in these pages – are less exciting than this Bourgogne. While it musters greater sensual appeal in its youth than is typical for this bottling, I am quite confident it will stand the test of time as have its best exemplars from other vintages, and I would have no worries about planning on following it for 8-10 years. Patrick Javillier began picking on September 3rd, but only finished (with his Savigny) mid-month. He chaptalized lightly, keeping all of the wines under 13%. He thinks his 2007 results capture “the spirit and purity of 1984, but with less acidity, and perhaps a bit that of 1979.” But the wines of Javillier were very different and far less exciting even a dozen years ago than they are today, so in that sense these comparisons are moot. (His favorites for drinking now, by the way, are his 1990s.) And I have never tasted a more impeccably balanced or consistently delicious and intriguing collection at this address than these 2007s. For some general notes on Javillier’s approach to vinification, consult my report in issue 180. A Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93

Round and well balanced and a real lip-smacking mouthful. Some notes of gorse and real beginning, middle and end. Very good value. (JR)