2009 Hermitage Ex Voto (3xBlanc, 3xRouge)

Every bit as phenomenal as the '10, yet in a completely different style, the 2009 Hermitage Ex Voto reveals a saturated inky color as well as layers of plums, black raspberries, candied violets, licorice and crushed rock. More voluptuous and extroverted than the '10, with an undeniably sexy, full-bodied, massively concentrated personality that just begs to be drunk, it will still evolve for decades on its sheer wealth of material.

Dark purple. Seductive aromas of cassis, cherry compote and floral pastilles are lifted by peppery spices and smoky minerals. Sweet and expansive in the mouth, with a chewy texture to the vibrant blackcurrant and bitter cherry flavors. Supple tannins come on late and are quickly absorbed into the wine's dense fruit. Finishes on a smoky note, with outstanding clarity and lift and sweet, penetrating persistence. Stash this one away in a dark corner of the cellar and forget it for a long time.