2023 Gruner Veltliner Zwerithaler Smaragd
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Tasting notes
Full bottle 1,259 g. Vines planted on this stony paragneiss, calcareous site at 679–915 ft elevation in 1914! Unoaked. Tiny production. Spicy wine with real grip and a little less obvious richness than the Achleiten Stockkultur 2023 although it has some strong similarities. Pungent and explosively smoky on the finish and no suggestion of alcohol. Elegant and sleek. Lovely freshness and complexity. Ideally wait for a little more evolution to take advantage of what it has to offer. A hint of the gherkin flavour that (to me) characterises this variety. (JR)
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Average Score
Jancis Robinson MW
Anne Krebiehl MW, Vinous
More reviews and scores
The 2023 Grüner Veltliner Ried Zwerithaler Kammergut Smaragd is a site still owned by Melk Abbey. The wines made from this site were historically reserved for the abbot. These vines were planted in 1907 and have immense genetic variety, including a small proportion of other historic varieties like Heunisch, aka Gouais Blanc. Located on the eastern fringe of Weissenkirchen, along the Schildbachgraben, this is like an amphitheater looking southeast across nine terraces, shaded as of mid-afternoon. Gentle, subtle moss on the nose comes with a slight overtone of citrus. The palate is almost viscous, so fluid, but so fine-boned, immensely dense and rounded but without heaviness. Lovely citrus, slender freshness and great individuality distinguish the wine. (Dry)