2019 Saarburger Rausch Kabinett 5

Full bottle 1,193 g. Very pure and bright with quite prominent fruitiness at this point. Too young to have developed much nose. (JR)

Fermented in 1,000 Fuder, typically 60–70 years old. Deep citrus aroma, lemon and lime with a little bit of orange and also the merest hint of mint and chamomile, which I had not noticed until winemaker Dorothee Zilliken pointed it out to me and until the wine had warmed a little in my glass. It nevertheless has a marked stone-dust character, the dustiness if not the flavour of white pepper, which means it is far from simple fruit. You can sense the aroma will become honeyed with age. On the palate, there’s intense purity, vibrant citrus – lemon, clementine and just-ripe apricot – with perfect balance between the sweetness and the very high acidity that is typical of the Saar. Long, mouth-watering (that pinging feeling just in front of your ears), deep, yet so light-hearted and joyful. So much pleasure in a glass.  VGV (JH)

What a stunning, exotic-fruit and floral nose, but it remains delicate. The palate is almost weightless, and the finish is very long, filigree and silky. The attractive spritz helps make it even more mouthwatering. Drink or hold.