2017 Venissa Artist Label Collection (Bianco 10,11,13 Rosso 11)

Venissa Bianco is a rare white wine made in tiny volumes. From Venice’s indigenous Dorona grape, it is unique – somewhere between mature white Burgundy, white Hermitage and Chardonnay or Savagnin from the Jura. The 2017 vintage is classically high-toned with a beguiling nose that shifts endlessly in the glass – from notes of sage and chamomile to nuts, butter, crunchy pear, candied lemon rind, toast and just-ripe white peach. This wine, however, is all about texture – with a fine phenolic grip and incredible length that is reminiscent of the best Jura Savagnin. Oxidative in all the right ways, it’s nevertheless vibrant with a savoury, saline bitterness and a long finish full of iodine and citrus pith.