2023 Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Murgers
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Tasting notes
Charles van Canneyt owns 0.68 hectares of this Premier Cru, which is at the Vosne-Romanée end of Nuits-Saint-Georges. Two-thirds of the site are currently being replanted, meaning there is significantly less of this than normal – and all from 80-year-old vines. The 2023 has a haunting nose, brooding with dark cherry and blueberry. It’s concentrated and impressive, with real power to the palate – yet it’s also incredibly fine, with talc-like tannins that frame the fruit. Mouth-watering acidity drives the finish, which is scented with floral aromas, a faint note of dried sage and pure, crushed-chalk freshness. Aromatically profound, poised yet powerful and very, very long, this is a beautiful wine – and a stand-out in the range chez Hudelot-Noëllat this year.
Critic scores
Average Score
Allen Meadows, Burghound
Neal Martin, Vinous
More reviews and scores
Aromas of plums, cassis, orange zest and spices introduce the 2023 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Murgers, a medium to full-bodied, lively and concentrated wine that's penetrating and intense. Due to rootstock problems, the younger vines that informed this cuvée are being replanted, so in 2023 this is an all old-vine cuvée.
Aromas of plums, cassis, orange zest and spices introduce the 2023 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Murgers, a medium to full-bodied, lively and concentrated wine that's penetrating and intense. Due to rootstock problems, the younger vines that informed this cuvée are being replanted, so in 2023 this is an all old-vine cuvée. This is another strong set of wines from Charles Van Canneyt—but that won't surprise readers familiar with this estate's consistent excellence. Van Canneyt has had the reins here for over a decade now, and his approach has crystalized: the predominantly destemmed fruit, retained intact, is fermented in cement tanks for a classical maceration of two to three weeks. Élevage is in barrels now predominantly sourced from Cavin, with Cadus in a supporting role, and lasts fully 18 months in the domaine's cold cellar, with the exception of the Bourgogne Rouge, which is bottled before harvest. These uncomplicated methods, combined with an enviable palette of appellations planted with notably old vines, produce elegant, charming wines with impressive substance and aging potential. I've been buying them for my own cellar since my student days, so this is an address I warmly recommend.
Outstanding - This is also quite aromatically interesting and pretty with its ripe and fresh combination of plum, dark cherry, earth and a whiff of the sauvage. The super-sleek, intense and delicious, if not especially dense, middle weight flavors still manage to display good power that continues onto the youthfully austere finish that flirts with rusticity. This is clearly built-to-age and a wine that’s going to need at least mid-term keeping. Drink from 2035.
About the producer
Founded in 1962 by Alain Hudelot and based in Chambolle-Musigny, Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat is today run by Alain’s grandson Charles van Canneyt and has become one of the region’s most respected estates.