2020 Brunello di Montalcino
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Tasting notes
This is another gorgeous wine from Matthew Fioretti at Cerbaiona. Despite the warmth of the year, the 2020 instantly shows its purity, with transparent and bright red fruit, crushed minerality and floral tones. There’s lovely transparency to the palate, combining delicacy and power with pinpoint fruit and supple texture, all framed by firm yet fine, chalky tannins. The whole thing is effortlessly balanced, with mouth-watering acidity driving the palate, with an earthy minerality echoing on the long, saline finish. Superb.
Critic scores
Average Score
Monica Larner, Wine Advocate
Eric Guido, Vinous
More reviews and scores
Interpreting a vintage marked by August heat, the 2020 Brunello Di Montalcino pours a bright red hue and leans into a slightly richer, more immediate profile than the 2021. The nose has black raspberries, grenadine, violets, and warm spice. Medium to full-bodied, it has broader shoulders and more flesh, with ripe tannins, balanced acidity, and a generous finish that stays refined. It should drink well for 10 to 15 years. Drink 2026-2040. This was my first visit to the estate of Cerbaiona, where I met with Matthew Fioretti. Along with investor Gary Rieschel, they purchased this historic estate in 2015 from Diego Molinari and began a four-year process of uprooting, replanting, and extending the vineyards, which are now cultivated using the alberello method. They have also overseen the construction of a new underground cellar. The wines have a renewed focus on precision, clarity, freshness, and sense of place. It is immediately apparent that Mr. Fioretti brings a fastidious attention to detail from the vineyard to the glass, and I, for one, find this a welcome change that seems to be leading Cerbaiona to a potential place among the best of the region.
The 2020 Brunello di Montalcino comes from a lacy and delicate vintage, offering a tight embroidery of berry fruit flavors and blue flowers that contrasts clearly with the power and density of 2019. The palate is mild and transparent, showing less mid-palate weight but having a soft, silky finish that emphasizes grace over force. Despite the very hot growing season, the wine remains poised and immediately appealing, reflecting Cerbaiona’s restrained approach to Sangiovese, with production totaling 12,653 bottles, 300 magnums and 30 Jeroboams.
The 2020 Brunello di Montalcino is spicy to the core, with an intense whiff of balsamic black cherries, dusty sage, allspice and cloves. It is soothingly round and ethereal in feel, with bright red and hints of blue fruit juxtaposed against tantalizing acidity. Nuances of blood orange and tart blackberry linger as it finishes with admirable length and an air of lavender. Blending 60% estate fruit with 40% purchased fruit from the northeast of Montalcino, the 2020 is incredibly approachable yet expertly balanced.
About the producer
A cult address for many Italian fine wine lovers, Cerbaiona is one of Montalcino’s top estates. The site has long been identified as special, but it was Diego Molinari who established its reputation. Today, Matthew Fioretti is at the helm, bringing the estate into the modern era.