2014 Il Musmeci Etna Rosso

100% Nerello Mascalese planted in 1932 in Rovitello at 700 m above sea level. Fermented in stainless steel with a total skin-contact time of 10 to 15 days. Aged for between 10 and 12 months in French oak tonneaux, followed by eight months in large Slavonian oak casks of 35 hl and at least four years in bottle. The wine is named in honour of the Musmeci family who have worked at the vineyard for generations. [NB the producers' website calls it a riserva but this is not written on the label. It is unclear why, but a possible explanation might be that although 2014, on the whole, was not a good vintage in Italy, it was considered outstanding in Sicily]. Maturing and just mid ruby with a bricky rim. Malt and tobacco leaf over red fruit, and while this already shows some development it is certainly complex. Increases in depth with aeration. Raspberry with a salty minerally note and black-pepper hints. Velvety raspberry palate with a dose of nervy acidity. Long, elegant and with a tactile, tannic finish with just a whisper of oak. (WS)