1989 Bienvenues Batard Montrachet

The 1989 Bienvenue-Bâtard-Montrachet has an almost outrageous eucalyptus-scented bouquet that knocks you sideways. It is almost medicinal in style with aromatics that throw away the script and have gone off script. But you love it all the more. The palate is very well balanced, that eucalyptus theme continuing with a superb bead of acidity and an almost tangy, marmalade and quince finish that packs a punch. This is a Bienvenue that takes no prisoners, cares little for conformity and is utterly memorable. Tasted at the mature white Burgundy dinner in Hong Kong.