2009 Joli Coeur Pinot Noir

The 2009 Pinot Noir Joli Coeur is a big, heavy hitting wine. There is plenty of concentration in the fruit, but less of the aromatic delineation and definition of Luc Morlet’s top wines. Hints of overripeness come through on the finish. Once again, I find myself preferring the Coteaux Nobles, the estate’s simplest Pinot, the most. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. I was quite frankly amazed by the range of wines I tasted with Luc Morlet. The wines span everything from single-variety Chardonnays, Pinots and Syrahs to Bordeaux-inspired blends. La Proportion Doree is a Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc blend with a dash of Muscadelle. Morlet’s Billet Doux is a late-harvest version of that wine, but with fruit just from Alexander Valley. Passionnement is Cabernet Sauvignon from vineyards in Oakville, while Coeur de Vallee is Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, also from Oakville. Mon Chevalier is a Bordeaux-style blend made from vineyards in Knights Valley. Morlet Estate, 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from St. Helena, is the newest wine in the lineup. Tel. (707) 967-8690; www.morletwines.com

(15.7% alcohol): Bright ruby-red. Captivating if somewhat reticent aromas of raspberry, violet, crushed rock and chocolatey oak. Fat, broad and highly concentrated but a bit tight today, with superb energy to the youthful flavors of raspberry coulis, graphite and herbs. This boasts remarkable inner-mouth energy for a pinot at this octane level. Finishes with broad, oak-driven tannins and a surprisingly light touch. Aeration brought an emerging spicecake character.