1997 Roc de Cambes

'There's no law of beauty', says François Mitjavile, ie you cannot predict beauty from rules or events. Flowering lasted four weeks so there was variation in the ripeness of the seeds between the earliest and latest fruit. Indian summer. Some grapes were grilled, overripe, and some fresh and good. Very tender. It looked evolved even when it was young. Deep brick red but still with some red at the core. Lots of savoury mushroom umami, still some slight chew on the finish but with wonderful freshness, chestnuts. Still has just enough flesh. A touch of meaty sweetness. With time in the glass, a note of coffee. (JH)

Although less concentrated than expected, this is an attractive, light-bodied Roc de Cambes with pleasant characteristics of roasted coffee, chocolate, and sweet cherry fruit. Drink it over the next 2-3 years.