2011 Radio-Coteau Syrah Las Colinas

(no new oak): Glass-staining purple. Deep, pungent scents of cassis, black olive, violet and smoky minerals. Classic syrah, offering sweet dark berry and spicecake flavors, with a smoky undertone and late notes of candied flowers and black pepper. Precise and spicy on the finish, which leaves bitter berry skin and cracked pepper notes behind.

The 2011 Syrah Las Colinas is very closed in on itself, most likely because of its recent bottling. Today, it is the wine’s fruit that comes through most clearly of all. Although the Colinas appears to have excellent potential, it also clearly needs time. Based on how previous vintages have blossomed, I would say another 2-3 years is optimal. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2026. This lineup from Radio-Coteau and proprietor Eric Sussman was among the most thrilling I tasted this year. Radio-Coteau practices sustainable farming and hands-off winemaking, which includes native fermentations, minimal rackings and bottling without fining or filtration. What ultimately counts, though, is what is in the bottle, and more often than not, these are compelling wines that deserve serious attention. Among many things, Sussman told me Syrah did better in 2011 than in 2010. Yields were down dramatically, but the fruit that was left was exceptional. Tel. (707) 823-2578