2018 Domaine Dugat-Py Charmes-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru
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Tasting notes
Offering up aromas of cherries, wild berries, licorice and loamy soil that only hint at the aromatic range to come with a little bottle age, the 2018 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru is full-bodied, layered and sumptuous, its deep and multidimensional core fruited by rich but refined tannins and lively balancing acids, concluding with a long, beautifully defined finish. This is a serious, concentrated Charmes that—as I wrote last year—fully vindicates Loïc Dugat-Py's decision to harvest early, as well as his move to a reduced percentage of new oak (only 66%) for this cuvée.
Critic scores
Neal Martin
Allen Meadows, Burghound
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The 2018 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru comes from five parcels, including one-third from Mazoyères-Chambertin that shares the same soil type. This contains 60% whole bunch and was raised in two-thirds new oak. It has a well-defined, slightly tertiary bouquet that takes time to fire its pistons. The palate is medium-bodied with fine definition and freshness, thanks to Loïc Dugat’s decision to pick early, on August 29, though it still feels compact on the finish - closing down for the winter, perhaps. Long-term and serious.
Pretty floral suffused aromas of plum, red and dark raspberry and a hint of game are set off again pungent freshly turned earth scents. The sleek, energetic and utterly delicious medium weight flavors terminate in a youthfully austere finale that delivers fine depth and persistence for a villages level wine. While this should amply reward a decade plus of aging, it should also be approachable after only 5 to 7 years.
About the producer
Dugat-Py, based at the base of the Combe de Lavaux in Gevrey-Chambertin, stands as one of Burgundy’s most revered producers, known for crafting Pinot Noir of incredible depth, power, and age-worthiness.