2005 Domaine de Montille Bourgogne

In bottle for a month the de Montille 2005 Bourgogne offers as much or more then one could dream of from the humblest of appellations: bell-clear fresh black raspberry and cherry fruit; infectiously-juicy, ripe fresh fruit acidity yet incipient creaminess; and a long, subtly-satisfying finish, its pure fruit tinged with brown spices, cherry pit and chalk. This would have no problem standing comparison with top-flight village Volnay. “You can make something like this in Bourgogne once in five years,” says de Montille, “... maybe ten.” Various importers, including Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 559 1040. Also, a Thomas Calder Selection, Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29