2006 Helmut Hexamer Meddersheimer RheinGräfenberg Riesling Spätlese

Hexamer’ “one star” 2006 Meddersheimer Rheingrafenberg Riesling Spatlese – from the heart of the Rheingrafenberg – offers a heady corsage of gardenias backed by quince jelly, apricot preserves, and candied lemon. With an uncanny combination of polished richness with lithe, light-footedness and refreshing acidity, and at an astonishingly low 7% alcohol (and correspondingly high residual sugar), this manages perfectly to convey the botrytis-tinged super-ripeness of the vintage while offering wafting delicacy. Subtle salty, smoky notes add interest to the long, dreamy finish. If you have any kind of a sweet tooth when it comes to Riesling it will be hard to resist drinking this now, but I suspect it will be capable of up to 20 years positive evolution in bottle. Harald Hexamer has made major strides since I last described his operation in these pages in issue 161, refining his approach in the vineyards and cellar, and acquiring astonishingly many new parcels, so that he now has three – and a majority share – in Schlossbockelheimer In den Felsen, and owns or has under contract one-third of the entire Rheingrafenberg (including nearly all of the Eisendell). Hexamer sacrificed some of his remaining crossings in order to insure the harvest of healthy Riesling. His earliest-picked material tasted marginally under-ripe, but he did not finish until the 19th of October, and by then had amassed the finest collection I have tasted thus far at this address. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300