2008 D.R. Stephens Cabernet Sauvignon Moose Valley Vineyard

The 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Moose Valley is a big, rich wine bursting with dark red fruit, spices, licorice and tobacco. There is plenty of depth and fleshiness in this extroverted, inviting Cabernet Sauvignon. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2023. (Not yet released) Tel. (707) 963-2908

(from vines planted in volcanic soil on lower Howell Mountain road): Good full ruby-red. Lush, broad and rather charming; less tannic than the Walther River bottling and a bit looser-knit, offering earlier drinkability. Tannins spread over the finish, which shows attractive length. But can't quite match the Walther River for energy or spine.

Good ruby-red. Black fruits, cedar and menthol on the nose. Cooler in style than the 2007 but suppler than the Walther River Block sample, with flavors of cassis, bitter chocolate, licorice, herbs and black olive. This one has more mid-palate support to buffer its firm tannins.