2005 Domaine Jean Garaudet Beaune Clos des Mouches 1er Cru

Garaudet only has three barrels (75 cases) of 2005 Beaune Clos des Mouches, which smells of blackberry and beet root with notes of almond extract, sweet flowers and herbs, cherry pits, coconut, citrus zest, cedar, and cinnamon. As with other Garaudet 2005s, this displays an alluring counterpoint of brightness of fruit with creaminess of texture, and an invigorating, salty mineral cast. Finishing with real vibrancy and grip as well as elegance and refinement, this cru should cellar nicely for 7-10 years, but might not shut down anytime along the way. Jean Garaudet has sold his domaine, as he has no children interested in carrying on. But the new owner will retain him as a consultant beginning with this year’s harvest. Garaudet – who still does things the old fashion way, including genuine foot-treading of the cap, and whose wines are often a touch rustic but surprisingly good keepers – has been the source of many excellent Burgundy values over the years, and 2005 is no exception. A Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93.