1997 Domaine Louis Michel et Fils Chablis Vaudesir Grand Cru

The aromatically closed 1997 Chablis Vaudesir is medium-to-full-bodied, rich, and has excellent breadth. Its powerful minerality is joined by chalk, stone, and lemon flavors. With time this vibrant wine may well blossom to deserve a more exalted score. Drink it between 2001 and 2006. Readers who are fans of Domaine Louis Michel's wines should note that the estate has changed its labels, starting with the 1997 vintage. The new design emphasizes each vineyard's name to the expense of the domaine's nomenclature, which is now printed in tiny lettering at the bottom of the label. Jean-Loup Michel describes the 1997 vintage as "rich, healthy, and ripe but without the breadth of the 1996s." Like many of his vigneron colleagues, Michel said he was "scared early that the 1997s would be lacking in acidity, but after the malo-lactics I feel they have turned out quite nicely. Since they are delicious to drink now they will serve to protect the 1996s that require patience." Michel's wines undergo multiple bottlings but since they are kept in air tight stainless steel tanks there are only minimal differences between them. The U.S. bottling was shipped in September, 1998. All of Domaine Louis Michel's wines are machine harvested, then vinified and aged in tanks. Other wines tasted: 1997 Chablis (86), 1995 Chablis Les Grenouilles (92), 1996 Chablis Montmain (89), 1997 Petit Chablis (85). Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel (205) 980-8802.