2008 Sanguis Endangered Species acts 1-3

Dark cherries, plums, spices, menthol and licorice are layered nicely in the 2008 Endangered Species. This attractive, silky Syrah blend from Watch Hill, Grassini, Los Tres Burros, Bien Nacido and Refugio Ranch is the most refined of the 2008s I tasted. Winemaker Mattias Pippig added 5% Viognier and 3% Roussanne to the blend. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016. These wines from Mattias Pippig are perplexing. There is no question Pippig is working with beautiful, high quality fruit. The whites and the young reds attest to that. While winemaking is in many ways complex and involves endless factors, I find the Sanguis reds more interesting when they are in barrel than after bottling, which suggests the wines may be spending too much time in oak. There is a trend in many parts of the world to give important red wines longer aging in barrel, but that is an approach that only works in a few select cases. This set of new releases also includes the Loner Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, which are single-variety wines rather than the blends favored at Sanguis. They are made in a similarly stripped down manner as the Sanguis wines, with no fining or filtration. Tel. (805) 686-3086

The 2008 Sanguis Endangered Species, acts 1-3, mainly Syrah but with smaller amounts of Grenache and Viognier, displays an inky, glass coating purple color to go with tight, focused aromas of blueberry, plum, violets, graphite, licorice, and subtle smoked meat and minerality that comes out more with air. Full-bodied on the palate and backwards and concentrated, yet with solid polish and depth, this beautifully put together Syrah needs 2-3 years of bottle age, and should drink well over the following decade.

(92% syrah, 5% viognier and 3% roussanne): Opaque purple. Pungent aromas of blackberry, cassis, candied licorice, cracked pepper and mocha. Dense, layered and quite lively, offering sweet blackberry, spicecake and olive flavors. Finishes with broad, supple tannins and very persistent dark berry flavor.