2014 Château des Rontets Pouilly-Fuissé Clos Varambon
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Tasting notes
(made in vats and barrels, then raised entirely in oak; this blend gets the three or four new barrels that Montrasi purchases each year): Pale color. Brisk aromas of apple and minerals. Tactile, salty and taut, offering excellent mid-palate precision owing to its energetic lemony acidity. At once suave and serious, this wine has gained in flavor intensity since I tasted it last fall shortly after it was bottled. Finishes with a leesy complexity and lovely persistence.
Critic scores
Average Score
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
More reviews and scores
(bottled at the end of August; the estate's largest cuvée , representing an assemblage of 15-to-50-year-old vines around the house; mostly made in large wooden vats, then aged in vats and older barriques --plus a few new ones each year): Pungent, vibrant aromas of candied lemon peel, lemon cream and white flowers. Juicy and penetrating, even a bit tart in the early going, showing a strong, saline crushed-stone minerality. Gained somewhat in pliancy with air without turning soft. But this is youthfully tight today. This wine was lightly filtered but the later-bottled 2014s will not be fined or filtered. May eventually merit 90 points.