2003 Syrah Pourquoi Pas

Jeff Cohen (Maryland-born, I’m proud to say) is well-known as the winemaker for Rosenblum Cellars, but he also produces a bevy of high octane, gorgeous reds under his own name. His most innovative creation is the 2003 Pourquoi Pas (125 cases), a blend of Syrah from the Cote Rozier Vineyard of Cote Rotie and Syrah from Sonoma’s Rockpile Vineyard. I fail to understand why someone would take fruit from two great terroirs and blend them together, thus masking both their personalities, but those quibbles aside, this is a fine effort. The wine’s dense ruby/purple color is accompanied by a big, spicy nose of roasted meats, blackberries, cassis, and hints of licorice as well as toasty oak. Medium-bodied and pure with fine structure, decent acidity, and serious concentration, it should age nicely for a decade. Tel. (510) 749-9463; Fax (510) 864-0897