2003 Marcassin Chardonnay Marcassin Vineyard

An evolved medium gold color (no greenish hue) rivals a handful of the older looking Chardonnays that were a rarity in this vertical tasting. More honeyed brioche notes are intertwined with notions of damp earth, dense, rich fruit and tighter aromatics. Well-made, full-bodied and rich, but monolithic, it will last another 5-10 years, but I doubt it will be one of the most brilliant wines of the group. Marcassin Winery, P.O. Box 302, Calistoga, CA 94515; tel. (707) 258-3608; fax (707) 942-5633

Medium yellow-green color. Lovely fruit-driven aromas of peach, lemon, pineapple and clove offer noteworthy complexity and excellent lift. Then fat, rich, dry and improbably full in the mouth, with harmonious acidity framing and lifting the nuanced flavors of pineapple, lemon, flowers, honeysuckle and stone. Finishes quite dry and extremely long, with an impression of underlying power. This may ultimately need more aging than the 2004.