2007 Franz Hirtzberger Riesling Hochrain Smaragd

The aroma of Hirtzberger’s 2007 Riesling Smaragd Hochrain is nothing short of spectacular, with diverse flowers, citrus oil, quince, and kaleidoscopic suggestions of crystalline minerality. The palate follows suit, and in its sheer concentration, bright acidity yet subtle creaminess, levity, and smoky pungency, points to the desiccation of fruit that informed this amalgam of mid-October and early November harvests. A tingling impression of spice and ore-like minerality is uncanny, but it has to be pointed out that this cannot boast the clarity or refreshment offered by the Setzberg. There appears to have been too much botrytis influence to avoid a certain severity of concentration and very slight blurring in the finish. Given the botrytis wild card in its deck, I would cellar this watchfully and anticipate at least 5-6 good years. Most of Hirtzberger’s 2007 vintage Gruner Veltliner reflect their late dates of harvest and the presence of botrytis (a certain amount of which he always welcomes) in rich, low tones. Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700