1984 Chateau Montelena Cabernet Sauvignon Estate

Medium red. Restrained nose conveys lovely floral lift to the aromas of redcurrant, potpourri spices, cedar and earth; the green notes of most of the preceding vintages are not apparent here. Juicy and penetrating on the palate, projecting claret-like energy and definition to its red berry and soil flavors. An integrated spine of acidity accentuates the impression of precision and vinosity. Finishes firmly tannic but not at all dry, clinging to the palate and building on the aftertaste. Bo Barrett experimented with long macerations of 25 to 45 days in 1984--and again in 1990--but he told me that he didn't keep the temperature in the tank high enough. He also noted that in the early '80s, 'our reputation was that the wines needed ten years because of their tannins.' The estate sold each new vintage over a four-year cycle, he added, 'because the wines were hard to sell.' (ST)