1989 Domaine Michel Colin-Deleger et Fils Puligny-Montrachet Les Demoiselles 1er Cru

Colin-Deleger has made some lovely 1989s that offer the wonderful tropical fruit aromas of super-ripe grapes, the fat, unctuous, opulent textures that come from wine high in glycerin and low yields, as well as heady, alcoholic finishes. The most flamboyant, concentrated, and dramatic of his offerings is the 1989 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Demoiselles. While only a premier cru, in 1989 this wine is of grand cru quality. Its huge, buttery popcorn, grilled nut bouquet is followed by splendidly rich flavors that go on and on. Still young, it is just beginning to develop the nuances that make white burgundy so profound. I would opt for drinking it between 1992-1997. Colin's 1989 wines are more concentrated (because of lower yields) than either 1985 or 1986, but their great ripeness is slightly off-set by relatively low acidity. For those who are unable to resist temptation and have huge reserves in their bank accounts, this is an ideal vintage, as these wines will provide great early-on drinking. How well they will age depends on how cold one's cellar is, but my guess is that even the greatest of the white burgundies of this vintage will have to be drunk within their first decade of life. Importer: Kermit Lynch Selections, Berkeley, CA.