2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva

Bottle 604 of 2,598. Deep ruby. Expansive, deep, complex nose. Cigar leaves, hints of morocco leather, white pepper and a suggestion of rosemary over damson and raspberry fruit. Gorgeous, fluid fruit on the palate on a layer of tannins as fine as if they had been ground in a mortar. Stunning, elegant palate weight. Transparent. (WS)

The 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Diecianni is impossible to ignore, with a wonderfully earthy and old-school blend of crushed cherries, fall leaves, underbrush, sweet pipe tobacco and autumnal spice. It presents a harmonious combination of silken, nearly fleshy textures and vividly ripe red and black fruits underscored by minerals and a hint of citrus. The structure clamps down through the finish, reminding me of this beauty's youthful state as a tinge of wild blueberry fades. This is a glorious riserva with a very bright future.

Released 10 years after the harvest, Le Chiuse’s Riserva is made from the estate’s oldest vines, approximately 35 years old, which typically yield small berries. Lorenzo Magnelli says these confer greater depth of aromas, tension and mineral profile. This 2016 late release is a striking testament to that. Though less floral, it is reminiscent of its annata counterpart, with the intensity dialled up. Pronounced tobacco and Chinese five spice with smoky Lapsang tea make for an exotic introduction. Mouthcoating and velvety, the umami-driven palate reveals dried cherry, truffle and hints of walnut. Assertive, tight-knit tannins tug persistently. This is just at the very beginning of it wide drinking window.