2023 Sori San Lorenzo
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Tasting notes
The Gaja 2023 Barbaresco Sorì San Lorenzo is the most powerful and broad-shouldered of the three single-vineyard Barbarescos, showing greater fruit weight and a more commanding presence from the outset. Unlike the more reserved Sorì Tildìn, this wine is already remarkably open and generous despite its youth. Dark berry fruit, savory spice and a pronounced note of iron ore define the bouquet, giving way to a palate of impressive richness and structure. Yet even with its added power, the wine remains beautifully balanced and refined, suggesting a long evolution ahead. During my visit with Gaia Gaja, she outlined the important long-term investment in the Sorì San Lorenzo vineyard. The oldest section of the vineyard (0.9 hectares) was recently replanted using massal selection. They've also improved drainage and planted buffering rows of approximately 15 different tree species, including fruit trees, to recreate a more diverse ecosystem. These changes are intended to reduce heat stress and sunburn while restoring a woodland effect ("effetto bosco") around the vineyard, an adaptation that will take years to reveal its full impact.
Critic scores
Average Score
James Suckling
William Kelley (Robert Parker)
More reviews and scores
Barbaresco. MGA Secondine. Just mid ruby. Lifted, focused raspberry nose with minerally hints and a suggestion of dark earth, mace and rosemary. Pure and conveying a sense of cool climate (which 2023 wasn’t!). Very elegant palate weight and with the perfect dose of firm but not overbearing and ripe gravelly tannins. The fruit closes up on the finish, so there is much more to come. Walter Speller
Produced since 1967, Sorì San Lorenzo perches steeply in the sub-district of Secondine near the Tanaro river. Even in the lighter 2023 vintage, its commanding presence is evident. Slightly subdued to start, it eventually reveals a balsamic, almost spicy character. Green peppercorn, fennel and lavender weave through pulverised stone. A mix of darker fruit with wild strawberry is underscored by juicy blood orange. The tannins are taut yet velvety, and there is flesh on those bones. Scintillating acidity pierces through the mineral-inflected finish.
Smoky and elegantly austere, showing graphite, licorice, red currants, dried cherries, violets and potpourri. The attack is fresh and balanced, with firm, youthful yet polished tannins, a rounded mouthfeel and a refreshing spine of acidity. The quality is evident in the finish, with its strawberry and orange-zest nuances. Drink or hold.
About the producer
Gaja has been at the forefront of the Piedmont wine scene for many years and is Barbaresco’s most decorated producer. The winery has received a record number of Gambero Rosso Tre Bicchieri awards – the highest accolade from Italy’s leading wine publication.