2014 Bonnes Mares

The 2014 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru, mainly from "terres blanches" just above Ghislaine-Barthod's premier crus, sees around 60% new wood -- but only consists of two barrels this year. It has a well defined, slightly backward nose at first, not as exuberant as some other Bonnes-Mares that I have tasted. That comes across on the palate. It has an effortless, silky smooth texture -- not a rough edge in sight with the new oak seamlessly integrated. It has layers of blackcurrant and blueberry fruit, nothing excessive here, but very focused and streamlined, finishing with a stony, conservative finish. Quite compelling.