2011 Cote Rotie Les Rochains

Dark purple. Powerful smoke- and spice-accented boysenberry and cherry-vanilla aromas are brightened by fresh flowers and cracked pepper. Round and expansive on the palate, offering gently sweet dark fruit compote flavors that are lifted and sharpened by juicy acidity. Silky tannins build on the finish, which features sexy blue fruit liqueur and Asian spice nuances. This extroverted, sexy Cote-Rotie is showing a surprisingly forward character today.

Inky purple. Cassis, blueberry, licorice and oak spices are complicated by a hint of violet. Spicy and youthfully taut, showing a smoky character to its flavors of black fruit preserves, spicecake and game. Has good intensity and clarity. Finishes on a fresh blueberry note, with fine focus and slow-building tannins.

From the Cote Blonde, the 2011 Cote Rotie Les Rochains is the finest Bonnefond 2011. A deep plum/ruby color is followed by aromas of flowers, raspberries, black currants and a hint of smoky bacon fat. This attractive, lush, round Cote Rotie is ideal for drinking over the next decade. Bonnefond’s 2010 Cote Roties have potential, but their recent bottlings have given them relatively closed personalities. I was unimpressed by both vintages of the Colline de Couzou. In both 2010 and 2011, except for a handful of producers (such as Delas, Guigal, Rostaing and Ogier), Cote Rotie is the weakest Rhone Valley appellation. Importer: Europvin; www.europvin.com