2006 Gevrey Chambertin Les Combottes

Musk oil, wood smoke, fresh cherry, and roasted red meats dominate in the nose of Raphet's 2006 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Combottes. The tartness of fresh cherry takes the lead on the palate, and when paired with the wine's smokiness and a salted beef stock aspect, makes for an invigorating finish. There is not much substantiality here, but the tannins are admirably refined. The Raphet wines have always been marked by a wide divergence of quality and a reflection of conditions very much as nature presented them. The results in 2006 are relatively lightweight, with for the most part only bottlings from the characteristically top sites and vines of the domaine really asserting strong personalities (and a presumably hail-tainted and rather 1983-like village Gevrey being less than recommendable). Gerard Raphet says he picked consciously on the early side, and then quickly, boosting the alcohol levels on most wines slightly from their potentials in the low 12s. (For further information about Raphet and his sites, readers are urged to consult my report in issue 171.) Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93