1998 Domaine Armand Rousseau Ruchottes-Chambertin Clos des Ruchottes Grand Cru

The 1998 Clos des Ruchottes is attired with an attractive bouquet whereby secondary aromas are only just beginning to emerge from under the carapace of rich primary fruit. Undergrowth, mossy stone and wild strawberry are all detected. However, the aromatics do not own the cohesion and focus of the 2002 Clos des Ruchottes. The palate is smooth and velvety on the entry, perhaps with just a touch of puppy fat. There is a core of red currant jam and cranberry that fan out toward the finish, but don’t really flow like the 1990 or the 1996. Ergo, there is something just a touch foursquare at the moment, and you wish there was just a little more length. Still, this is a lovely wine to consume before broaching the 1996. Drink now-2028. Tasted September 2013.