2016 Gevrey Chambertin Craipillot

(this and the following wines are aging in 100% new oak; 35 hectoliters per hectare were produced by these 80-year-old vines, the oldest of the domain, as they are situated in a cuvette and were less frosted than Humbert's Lavaux-Saint-Jacques): Deep, bright red. Musky raspberry, dark cherry and a whiff of smoky reduction on the nose. A step up in sweetness and texture from the preceding wines (Humbert says this fruit is typically a half-degree higher in potential alcohol than the rest of his holdings), in fact almost roasted in the context of this group. But this very ripe wine is stuffed with wild berry flavor and finishes with distinctly elegant tannins and lingering sweetness.