2005 Domaine Georges Roumier Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru

Good deep, bright red. Urgent aromas of crushed dark fruits and white pepper; brilliantly delineated but extremely unevolved. Then wonderfully juicy and bright in the mouth, with complex mocha and game hints adding interest to the concentrated, sappy berry flavors. Dense, classically dry and thoroughly ripe grand cru that's still a bit closed in on itself. The very long, slow-mounting finish features substantial suave tannins and terrific underlying structure. This should evolve in bottle for at least a couple of decades.

This is also en metayage and was bought by a collector in 1977, the same time as Rousseau and Mugnier acquired their Ruchottes parcels. Very deep crimson with aromas of compost, game and damp leaves, Chewy, lively, not enormous weight but crackling taffeta texture. Quite airborne and ethereal. Lively and long. Roumier says he will bottle this one late. (JR)