2020 Chambertin Clos de Beze Cuvee Hommage a Philippe
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The 2020 Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru Hommage à Philippe is a unique cuvée that I tasted at the domaine last year with Pierre Duroché, a special bottling from vines planted exactly a century earlier by his grandfather. (At that time, it did not have a name, and its working title was simple "Vieilles Vignes".) The barrel was bottled en magnum except for three bottles, and this was one of them, arguably making it the rarest wine I will ever taste! It has a beguiling bouquet with dark cherries, blueberry, crushed violet and a hint of camphor. Stunning delineation, unfurling with every swirl of the glass. Utterly alluring. The palate is blessed with haunting balance, touches of shucked oyster shell infusing the red fruit, shimmering with nascent energy and a pixelated finish that has a Vosne-like allure. While I am not moved to ascribe the word "perfection", that is within sight. Heavenly. Tasted at the Clos de Bèze vertical at La Cobotte.
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About the producer
Domaine Duroché has, under Pierre Duroché, become one of the most sought-out and respected wine domaines in Gevrey-Chambertin. The wines are delicate and detailed, yet with old-vine intensity, a clear sense of place and style – and it’s easy to see why they’ve rapidly become so in-demand.